Kaila here. Your girl. With another controversial installment of my “A Teen’s Surf Saga” series.
My surfing journey, along with Waian’s, has gone through a metamorphosis of sorts. Which is a fairly weak way of saying that our surfing journey has changed. As you know, Waian and I started surfing when we were young. We surfed a lot of contests.
Today though, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I surf for me. Not trophies.
This particular surf contest that’s the subject of this post, turned out to be life changing. For both Waian and I. But, I’m getting way ahead of ourselves.
As always I take artistic and editorial license in telling my surf saga story. It seems it gives it that little extra. Pop.
If you will. Besides telling you about the contest, I also talk about the contest scene, contest strategy, and my trade-mark dramarama. Then throw in some Kaila-style “digression analysis.” Fun. Foolishness. As always, my motto is: Have. A. Take.
Oh and by the way. This story is going to be broken up over several segments. As usual my “A Teen’s Surf Saga” stories are posted on Wednesdays. So be sure to take in each Wednesday to keep following the action, drama and craziness. Enjoy. I know Waian and I did. A whole lot. 😊
Kaila
SURF SAGA TELLING By now, a lot of you are used to my off-the-wall school of telling stories. Or should I say, Surf Saga telling. You know it’s all about the Journey. Don’t despair. Don’t get antsy. The Surf Saga plays out.
Lots of play.
Very little “out.”
ANY RESEMBLANCE TO ACTUAL EVENTS, PLACES AND PEOPLE IS PURELY COINCIDENTAL
Like all of my Surf Saga stories, I don’t name locations, surf spots or name people. All part of our “Don’t surf and tell” policy.
Unless, it’s a surf spot like Malibu that no matter what I say, is still going to have hundreds of surfers out. This morning. Tomorrow morning. And the day after that. Nothing I say about Malibu is going to increase the crowds. Malibu is so famous. Nothing Matters.
Because guess what? At Malibu it’s all about the parking. Each day, the parking on PCH fills up. Then the parking lots fill up.
The only reason why there’s only 300-400 surfers out, instead of 1,000+, is because there’s no more parking.
Hey, I don’t make this up. You want to surf Malibu? Get there early and often. Good luck.
Great surf.
Huge crowd.
“Got it…”
Oh yea… any resemblance to real people is purely, yes purely, coincidental.
Even if you’re Ms. Catty from L.A. Even if you’re mean, malicious, and spiteful.
You’ll see.
It’s just coincidental if you know I’m talking about you. Honest.
But, I’ll tell you what.
Sometimes, all too often the shoe fits. All too well.
But like I said. Purely coincidental. I’m sure.
Now, with that out of the way… Where were we? Oh yea.
We’re going to a surf contest.
Have you ever been to a surf contest?
If not, you’re in for a real treat. If you have, I’ll bet you haven’t been to one quite like this. Welcome to California Surf Club contests. Fun. Fun. Fun.
“BUT KAILA, YOU CAN’T TALK ABOUT BUD LITE BEER IN YOUR TEEN POST” 
Before anybody wigs out about having a post about Bud Lite. Not to mix metaphors – but…. Hold your horses.
Wait.
Take a dee breath.
See how this plays out.
I know this is The Original Surfers. About teens having fun at the beach. Like I said. I know.
Some of you may read the title of this post and have jumped right to the conclusion that a bunch of teens are drinking beer on the beach. Didn’t you? Come on. It’s okay. Admit it.
You can visualize it right now. Doesn’t take much.
Again. Wait. Chill. Relax. Take that deep breath I recommended.
Now. Are you ready? Okay, let’s get started.
Notice I didn’t say, “Let’s get the party started.”
That’s like pouring gasoline on a fire. Blazing beach fire. With tiki torches. The villagers are already restless.
Don’t need that.
WAIAN AND I KNOW
Everyone, other than Waian, because she knows the true story, tells me, “Kaila, you can’t talk about Bud Lite beer in your post.”
“You just can’t.” “You just can’t.”
Okay.
Here’s the deal. I’ll lay it out for you.
SHORT AND NOT SO SWEET
This post title and post is going to keep Bud Lite.
My Surf Saga is going to explain how Bud Lite changed Waian’s and my life.
In a huge way. If you’re going to tune us out because all the thought police don’t approve of a teen post that tells the truth… Well, we wish you the best.
ADI – FREAKING – OS AMIGO
That’s my high school Spanish in action.
See.
I should have gotten an “A” in Spanish last year, instead of an “A-.” I know you’re more impressed with my Espanol than my Spanish teacher was. 😊
Now.
Back to our regularly scheduled program … well almost.
Not quite yet. Sort of. Fate vs. Free Will.
It’s funny how things go. Not ha-ha funny. More like peculiar, crazy funny.
They say fate is fickle.
Or is it just something that happens?
Sort of like coincidence? I usually don’t believe in coincidences. And I don’t really believe in fate.
This surf contest changes my and Waian’s life. Like fate.
Ran us right over.
But, if anything, fate or coincidence or whatever you want to call it; it was an opportunity.
Free choice is what we chose to do with an opportunity.
Staring right at us. In the palm of our hands. Literally. And figuratively.
Now, we’re finally ready to get to the surf contest.
Whew.
Good to get back in the water. It feels good to be back on solid ground. Surfing… Only surfing is done in the ocean. But, you get the drift. Pun intended.
California Surf Clubs
There’s about 30 or so Surf Clubs in California.
It’s surprising you, and other people, haven’t heard more about them. Many are named after surf spots or beaches that are named in Beach Boys songs.
Most are in Southern California although one is in Santa Cruz. Which is not SoCal. Cold water, year around.
There are 6-7 Surf Clubs in San Diego. We belong to one of the San Diego surf clubs. I’d tell you which one, but then you’d have a pretty good idea where our home break is. Not local. And against our Don’t Surf and Tell policy.
The Surf Clubs have contests at their local breaks each year. They’re spread throughout the year. Most of the Club contests are “adult contests.” Although they have a 14 and under division and a 19 and under division. One for boys and one for girls.
The competitive part about the club contests is that there are age divisions for everyone, both men and women’s: 29 and under, 39 and under, 49 and under, 59 and under, 69 and under and over 70. You’d be surprised at how many good surfers there are in each division.
Lots of ex-pro surfers, surf stars, etc. Very competitive. Some amazing surfing actually.
Most of Waian and my wins came in kid contests. That is, against surfers closer in age to us. But we got so much better surfing against older kids in the club contests. It really helped us be better surfers.
COMRADESHIP SURFING FOR A CLUB
Club contests are cool because in addition to surfing for yourself, you’re surfing for a club. A team. Each time your club member “makes a finals,” your club gets “club points.”
The club gets more points for a 1st place, then 2nd place, etc. Each club contest has a “Team Award” and at the end of the season, there is a Season Award. People take it very seriously. Surf Club Bragging Rights!
Everyone on our club roots for each other. Lots of comradeship. When you travel to a contest as a group, it’s really fun.
Getting to know a lot of the best surfers at our home break helps us get waves when we’re home. After contests, lots of surfers in the line-up will congratulate you on how you did. All cool stuff for anyone, especially kids like Waian and I.
SURFING FAMOUS SURF BREAKS
Another one of the best things about club contests is that you get to surf some of the best surf spots in California. Instead having dozens, if not hundreds of surfers out, with many being grizzled locals that will vibe you for catching waves at their local spot, you’re out in the water with 5-6 girls.
No matter how good these other girls are, it’s nothing compared to the crowds you’ll face on an ordinary day at a really good surf spot. Piece of cake.
Pretty special.
OKAY, OKAY – I’LL ADMIT THIS SURF SPOT –ISN’T SO “SPECIAL”
I know, I hyped up a lot of club contest surf sites. All of that is true. But… Not with this surf contest. Not with the club surf contest that changed our lives. No, this isn’t a world class surf spot. Not hardly.
In fact, within a couple miles of this surf spot are some really, really good surf breaks. But. This ain’t it.
It’s actually a slow, mushy, crumbly surf spot. Hey, I’d like to tell you it’s steep, throws out. That it’s “10 feet and tubing.”
But, I’d be lying.
Embellishing.
Here at The Original Surfers, we’ll have none of that. Just the facts.
And, of course, my spot-on editorializing, digression analysis. No. B.S. teen, unvarnished truth. 😊
More truth. A mushy, slow surf spot isn’t the worse thing for Waian and I. Better than closed out beach break.
At least it’s something to work with. But, as usual, we’re getting ahead of ourselves.
What is “special” about this surf break is that it’s on the edge of what some people call “the combat zone.” Right down the beach from the contest, easy viewing and walking distance are perhaps the most crowded beaches in San Diego. Which makes for lots of people watching, cheering and checking our the surf contest and parking lot scene.
More on that later. Before we jump right into the story, I should tell you I was nine and Waian was seven years old at the time of this particular contest. I’m seventeen now and Waian is fifteen.
I have a lot more hindsight and more experience now, than I had then. But even then, we’d surfed dozens of contests and we were getting better at surfing contests, every time we paddled out.
PART SURF CONTEST, PART FESTIVAL, PART MEETING OF THE TRIBES
Oh yea, one more thing you should know, before we jump into our Surf Saga story… California Surf Club contests are different from other surf contests I’ve both competed in and seen.
Like most surf contests, they’re held over two days. Saturday and Sunday. Many of the competitors show up on Friday night, coming a long way.
They try and get in the water on Friday, get a few waves where the contest is being held. Get a feel for the break.
The different part is both the vibe and the Meeting of the Tribes. Some of the best surfers, at all different age groups show up. Many are, for surfers, celebrities or former “surf celebrities.”
Many are ex-pro surfers that have been surfing against each other for years. All of this is fun and good. But it all pales in many respects to what is going on in the parking lot and on the beach.
Wacko.
Over the top.
Like only Southern California can be.
As I say. Words just don’t do it justice.
The vibe.
The ENERGY.
Off the charts.
Like I said, it’s in the San Diego Combat Zone. You don’t know what you’ll see next. But, see it, you do.
Don’t blink.
You’ll miss it.
Which is all part of the vibe… Aura. Beach culture. San Diego style.
Like I said. The energy is on-fire. You’ll see. But, like I said. Don’t blink or look away. Keep your eyes peeled at all times. Sunglasses help.
Then you can often stare a little at the craziness, and not get caught. Be sure to check in next Wednesday, for the next installment of “A Teen’s Surf Saga – Part 9 Surfing in a California Club contest.”
P.s. In our next installment, we’ll do a deep dive into the contest weirdness: The parking lot and the beach. And I’ll be surfing against a wacked out catty girl from L.A. In other words –dramarama.