Note: This is Part 3 of a multi-part series. “A Teen’s Surf Saga.”
Click here for A Teen’s Surf Saga – Part 1 and A Teen’s Surf Saga Part 2 San Diego Beach Lottery
“What do you mean The Original Surfers isn’t about surfing?” my friend asked me in a skeptical tone of voice. “It’s not really,” I replied.
She was giving me this, I’m not buying it look.
“If The Original Surfers isn’t about surfing then why does it have a series called ‘A Teen Surf Saga’?”
“Good Question,” I responded.
Let me explain.
The Original Surfers is about teens having fun at the beach. My sister, Waian, and I figured if other teens loved the beach as much as we do, they’d fight to protect the beach, ocean, dolphins, sea turtles, and other marine animals.
There’s lots of ways teens can have fun at the beach. Surfing is one of them so, I’m doing a series on surfing. It’s a Surf Saga. You’ll see, it’s also about more than surfing.
Being Humble
I’m pretty humble.
I’m also pretty sure my little sister is rolling her eyes as she reads this.
Actually, her mouth dropped open first in disbelief. After recovering, then she rolled her eyes, as she said, “Yea… right….”
You know, I’m different around her. Because she’s my little sister.
I’m humble around my friends and especially around strangers.
My guess is you’re the same way. Whether you want to admit it to yourself or not. Most of us are different depending on who we’re around at the time.
I’m not talking about your character. Or, as Martin Luther King Jr. said, “The Content of Your Character.”
I’m talking about your personality. Whether you’re outgoing, reserved, talkative, shy, bubbly, serious, funny, etc. You’re probably different around your parents, teachers, a police officer, your besties, that certain boy (or girl) you think is really cute that you’ve never talked to, and… your little brother or sister.
Right?
So, yes, I think of myself as humble.
Then again, I’ve got a lot to be humble about. In spades actually.
As it turns out, finding reasons to be humble isn’t my problem.
Most people that know me would be quick to point out, my cup runneth over.
Nothing crazy here. When you live in a glass house, you learn humbleness.
An Okay Surfer
I’ve been blessed. I talk about this whole “winning the beach lottery” thing. I’ve surfed from Malibu to Central America. Unbelievable world class point breaks. Incredible reefs.
But, before we get all carried away here, take it from me, I’m not some super surfer. Not even close.
I’m an “okay” surfer.
I have fun.
Remember, The Original Surfers is about fun.
Teens having fun. At the ocean.
Fun.
I like to have fun. Going out on a limb here, but… I figure you like to have fun.
Keep repeating to yourself: fun, fun, fun.
Like a mantra.
We’re on our way already.
See..
Fun is Fun
It’s fun to have fun. Not exactly an intellectual idea. At least at first blush.
It’s something to live by.
Much deeper than it may first appear.
Many teen’s problems could be solved if they just remembered: have fun.
Much cheaper than a therapist.
Life is better when you’re having fun. 😊
Now, for a completely different direction.
Buckle up…
You know, don’t you? I have a knack for shall we say…
Drama.
Hopefully you can laugh and learn from my adventures and misadventures. Some might call them screw-ups.
Fair.
Caution: Detour Ahead
Time Out: I just know, some of you are reading this and you’re saying, “OMG, does this girl even know what English grammar is?” I know you’re not supposed to end a sentence with a preposition, but go with me here.
You might be thinking, “does she even know how to spell grammar?”
Ok here goes, g-r-a-m-m-e-r see fooled you huh?
“I’ll bet she had to use google to spell check.”
Got me there. Dang that peanut gallery. Again.
Let’s get this straight, right now. Put it on the table. Out in the open. Under the glare of harsh lights. So everyone can see it.
Touch it.
Freakin’ taste it if you want.
Heck, even kick it.
News Flash: I’m not writing this for my English teacher. I’m not writing this for Harvard or Stanford.
You might be thinking, “good thing too, because she just flunked English. She’ll be lucky to get into her local community college at this point.”
Funny. Ha. Ha.
More Hot News: I don’t give a flying jacuzzi. I’m not writing for them.
I know grammar. No, not the town in Iowa.
Read this. Out loud, if it helps. Slowly.
I’m. Breaking. All. The. Rules.
Deal with it.
It feels good. Being out on a limb.
Life on the edge. LOL
It’s fun. Remember that?
Fun.
Loosen up. Have. Fun.
Live a little. Color outside the lines.
I’m trying to get you all in the right state of mind for surfing. Ready?
Now.
Back to our regularly scheduled program.
Straight-Up Fun and Drama Revisited
Now, where were we?
I remember. I was telling you how great I am and how you probably want to be just like me.
Hold on. That’s not it?
Oh yea, I remember now. I lost my place.
I was telling you I hope you can laugh and learn from my surfing adventures and misadventures. Truth is, things don’t usually get fun until you go off-script. When things go wrong. That’s when you have a good story.
Lucky, I’ve got lots of those.
I’m all about being no BS. I don’t have a whole lotta stories about things going absolutely perfect. The waves may have been perfect. But me, not so much.
Instead, you get
Honesty.
I get that you don’t see this often. You’re probably not used to it. Hearing honesty can take some getting used to.
It’s not so common.
Just like “common sense.” It ain’t so common either.
Neither is honesty.
Rant: There’s way too much “political correctness.” Everyone’s afraid to hurt other people’s feelings. So, instead, they B.S. each other.
Everyone lives life walking on egg shells. Afraid to be funny.
More Free Life Info: You don’t have to be cruel in order to be honest with people. You can be kind and honest. Which is different from “kinda honest.”
But, once again, I digress.
Nope. Not ready yet to stop the digressing… Is this even a word? Yep, I looked it up.
The Rant 2.0:
Don’t look for any participation trophies around here. Instead, it’s…
“Johnny, you lost.” “Yes, that means you didn’t win.” “Nope. But guess what? We can still go get ice cream.” Just because you didn’t get a participation trophy doesn’t mean we all can’t go get ice cream. After all, ice cream is fun.
Back to this telling it like it is thing.
You see, I figured we’d start with Lil’ Ole’ Me.
Let’s try again.
I’d like to tell you how great I am and make you think, that if you were more like me, you’d be great, too.
But, I can’t.
It would be B.S.
The reality is I’ve made just about every surfing mistake and screw-up I’m suggesting you avoid.
This is the voice of experience.
Or maybe, more accurate, the school of extremely hard knocks.
You might have heard of it. Probably have. It’s pretty well known actually.
Hard Knocks Surf School. HKSS
I’d say, “enroll me.” But, I’m already the class valedictorian.
See. All that hard work paid off. Finally, I’m the overachiever my Mom always wanted me to be.
Just the wrong school is all.
Dang.
Better make the best of it. I hope you learn from all of this. So you can have as much fun as possible surfing.
Since this is a Surf Saga, I’m going to start at the beginning. Along the way I hope you’ll be able to laugh with me, or laugh at me.
Probably a whole lot more of the latter. But who’s keeping score?
Cut to Scene: Where my sister, Waian, is holding up a scoreboard. It seems I haven’t scored yet. She’s waving it back and forth. Like a red cape in front of a bull. Does she have to have such a look of pure delight? Really?
Don’t you love it when others are so very willing, downright helpful, and extremely quick to offer their two cents worth?
Okay if it was really only two cents… I wish more like a bank vault full of benjamins…
The HKSS
If you already know how to surf, I hope you enjoy my Surf Saga. If you don’t know how to surf or you’re still learning, I think you’ll get a better idea about surfing and surf culture.
And, with a little luck, you’ll love the ocean as much as Waian and I do. That’s the idea.
Thanks for reading.