This is Part 4
Click Here for A Teen’s Surf Saga – Part 1, Part A Teen’s Surf Saga Part 2 San Diego Beach Lottery, A Teens Surf Saga HKSS – An Overachiever’s Story Part 3
Tangent Alert: Here we go again, on a surf tangent. Wax up.
SURF BREAKS – A “Lay” of the Ocean
I say “lay” of the ocean because surf breaks vary based upon what is below the water. Namely, the bottom of the ocean. In order for waves to break, the water must be shallow enough.
Usually, waves are energy produced by strong wind that travel hundreds, sometimes thousands of miles in deep ocean water. When the wave energy hits shallow water, waves are made. Hopefully, surfable waves.
Throughout our Surf Saga, I’ll be talking about different surf breaks. I’ll usually tell you the type of surf break we’re surfing. I’m going into this now, so you’ll get the picture, if you will, of the type of surf break or waves Waian and I are surfing.
If you’re just learning how to surf, you want to learn how to surf better, this is important. So listen up. 😊
There’s four main types of surf breaks.
Beach Break
Beach Break is what was in front of our house. Beach Break is the most common type of break. The bottom of the ocean is sand. Surfers try to look for sand bars which form a shoulder, allowing surfers to catch waves.
When Beach Breaks are working, the waves can be fast, with barrels. A “barrel” is another way of saying “tube.” The wave breaks and throws out, creating a space where surfers can ride the wave in the “tube.” Also known as a “barrel.”
Hence: “Getting tubed” or “getting barrelled.”
See, you’re learning surf lingo already.
Our goal is to have you be a “kook” or a “barney” as short of time as possible.
Make no mistake, being called a “kook” or a “barney” is NOT a term of endearment. These terms refer to people that don’t know how to surf and/or that don’t observe surfing etiquette. Which won’t be you after you read our surf saga. 😊
So, let’s help you get you there ASAP. Okay?
Beach Breaks are all over the world, including the West Coast and East Coast. In fact, almost the entire East Coast is Beach Break.
The problem with Beach Breaks are big or even medium size swells will usually make Beach Break “close-out.” Meaning the wave will break all at once. Making surfing the Beach Break wave difficult, if not impossible. Hence the terms: “closed-out” and “closing-out.”
Beach Breaks are often best with peaky swells, wind waves, and/or when there are two or more swells hitting at the same time. The “crossing” swellscan break up the long lines, creating shoulders or sections that are surfable.
Piers, Jetties and Inlets
Beach Breaks can be broken up by man-made piers and jetties, along with inlets. These will often create a difference in the sand on the bottom of the ocean, thereby creating a surface section, or shoulder.
Reef Breaks
A good reef break is really fun. Ideally, the reef is shaped sort of like a triangle. The reef causes the bottom to be more shallow at the top of the triangle, thereby creating a surf break.
The place where we grew up surfing the most is a reef break. Actually, it’s three separate breaks. A long right, a long left, and a shorter right. Fun.
Generally, reef breaks are longer rides or waves than most beach breaks. And, they break more consistently. Pipeline in Hawaii is a famous, and very crowded, reef break.
Point Breaks
Point Breaks are formed when there is a section of land that juts out and creates a point into the ocean. The bottom can be sand, rocks, or even reef.
When a wave hits the point, the wave will break as it bends around. There are only a handful of Point Breaks in Southern California.
Often when the surf gets very big, Point Breaks are the only breaks that work. Meaning that they are surfable.
Trade –Offs
Surfing is a microcosm of life. There are almost always trade-offs. Generally, Beach Breaks will have less crowds. But, the waves are more inconsistent and with bigger swells they close-out and become unrideable. Beach Breaks are usually shorter waves.
Reefs are usually crowded. They are more consistent and work better with bigger swells. Point Breaks often have bigger crowds and usually continue to be rideable, no matter the size.
I usually don’t name surf spots, but no matter what I say here, Malibu will be super crowded. It’s a very good Point Break in North Los Angeles County.
Both Waian and I were fortunate to be contestants in the famed Malibu Invitational Surf Contest a few years. One year we were there, locals said it was the biggest surf they had ever had at the contest. It was big! What an incredible experience for one of us. The other one had misadventure/drama. I’ll tell you about it in a future post of “A Teen’s Surf Saga.” Make sure to check back.
In the meantime, try and guess which one of us – me or Waian – had the incredible experience and which one had misadventure/drama. 😊


