Kaila here. Hey, what’s up?
Welcome back to A Teen’s Surf Saga – this one’s about Waian and I going Boat Surfing and our misadventures. Like I like to say – adventures don’t get fun until something – or a lot of things go wrong… which is most of the time for me… so buckle up…
Previous A Teens Surf Sage Posts
It’s strongly suggested you read:
A Teen’s Surf Saga Part 2 San Diego Beach Lottery
A Teen’s Surf Saga HKSS – an Overachiever’s Story (Part 3)
A Teen’s Surf Saga – Surf Breaks A “Lay” of the Ocean
FIRST!
Let’s go Surf Sagaing
I’m sure there’s a whole lot of you that are saying or at least thinking, right about now, hold on there Kaila, there hasn’t been a whole lot of surfing in this “surf saga…”
You’re right. Good spot.
And it’s really been light on “saga.” Also, if you want to know.
Yep. You’ve got me there.
No disputes about any of this light on surfing. Really light on saga…
You’re probably thinking, “What kinda surf saga you guys have here anyway?” “What the fudge?”
Short Answer: Don’t get your undies all in a twist.
“Wedgie. Table for one.”
Time OUT.
Back. OFF.
I’m listening. Sort of.
My original intention for “A Teen’s Surf Saga” was to start off with how Waian and I learned how to surf. I thought we could sort of ease our way into the drama, excitement, adventure.
But, I can see now. You’ll have none of that. You want drama. Blood. Sweat. Tears. Fear.
Cue: Indiana Jones Theme Music.
Okay. But, just you wait. Next week, it’s going to be young, sweet Kaila and Waian learning how to surf.
Remember, that whole honesty thing? I know. Dang.
Well, one out of two isn’t bad. Is it?
Okay, okay. We were young, real young. Maybe not so sweet. Like I said one out of two.
Today, the only sweetness you’re gonna get is blood. Literally. You asked for it – – give ’em what they want.
Lets go surfin’.
Again, we’re jumping way ahead of our timeline with this segment. Waian and I started surfing when we were really young. We’d been surfing for years when this all happened.
Got your leash on?
You’re gonna need it. It’s that type of surf break.
This happened a few years ago. I was about 11 years old. Waian was about 9. Don’t let her age fool you. Waian could surf.
For a long time, our surfing world consisted of a special very, very special reef break. Our “home break.” We’d also surf in surf contests. But, by and large, we’d surf our reef. It’s in San Diego. It can get really crowded.
As we got better, we started surfing different places.
Now, don’t get confused by the title of this segment. When you surf with a surfboard behind a boat that’s called “free-boarding.” Lots of fun When you use a boatto take you to surf spots, that’s boat surfing. Southern California boat surfing. Today we’re boat surfers.
Digression Analysis
Okay Kaila, “what’s this digression analysis” nonsense? It’s summer we don’t need this. Let me explain.
Well, it’s when you digress and also provide analysis. I made it up. Sounds official doesn’t it? Like a field of mathematics.
Digress: to stray from the main subject in speaking or writing.
Note: You’ll see a lot of straying here. So I came up for a fancy name for it. I stray! ☺
Sort of like “military intelligence.” An oxymoron. Like “deafening silence.” Or “smart little sister.” You get it.
Not a run of the mill “moron,” have you. But a super-duper “maxy” one.
Is this thing on?
Don’t forget to tip your bartenders and servers. I’ll be here all week.
I know. I know. Now, back to my digression… drum roll please… analysis.
I’m sure some of you are thinking it’s a lot more “anal” than “ysis” at this point. Hey! Hey! I have to caution you we have to keep this PG… for young teens. Keep it clean!
Can we please, at least, get to the digression part?
Oh yea. Lost my place. Sorry.
There’s this surf video with John Florence. Yes, that “John John.” The world surfing champion. In the video, John John is maybe 3 years old. He’s surfing at the North Shore. It was probably summer. Small waves. But John John was surfing. Young.
Hey, I know most people don’t start surfing that early… but …
And, no I’m not saying Waian and I are even “good” surfers. As I mentioned before. I told you to read parts 1-4 so you can keep up, didn’t I? We’re “okay” surfers.
True, if you don’t surf well, you’ll think we’re good surfers. But, we’re not.
Because I told you we’d be honest with you.
Point being, Waian and I both started surfing young.
More Digression Analysis
I’m sure this DA stuff is quickly wearing out its welcome. Assuming it was ever welcome in the first place.
Here’s the deal. Waian and I have missed thousands of waves because we either didn’t have enough speed padding or we were too far behind the wave breaking. Yep, thousands of missed waves.
We’ve both been pitched by hundreds of waves. From 2 feet mushy waves to way,way overhead big waves. We’ll talk about all of this much more when we’re covering – in depth – learning how to surf and our “surf tips.”
Pitched: a surfing term. When the wave breaks and the surfer is too far in front of the wave. So, the surfer is violently thrown. Out. In the air. Scans the water below. Then, the wave breaks on top of them. Ouch.
In extreme waves. Waves that barrel (read: tube), when you get nailed by the wave, you become part of the tube… Instead of being “in” the tube. You are not to your delight, part of the tube. The wrong part. Unfortunately.
Then, the fun’s just starting. If you’re on a reef break, like our upcoming story, you can get thrashed on the reef, underwater.
It’s how surfers die at pipeline. Not that this surf spot remotely compares to Pipeline. But yes, it’s a reef break.
Yep. Waian and I had been pitched in hundreds of waves. John John will tell you he’s been pitched, too. At Pipeline, I’ll bet. If you surf, it’s part of the whole deal.
In big waves, it’s like jumping off the garage roof. Then, having the rest of the garage land on you. Hard. Add jagged reef.
Elevator. Going down. Fast. Hold your breath.
Now, back to your story. ☺
Wait.
Nope. Not yet. I forgot to tell you all about something else that helps explain our story.
If you’re John John Florence, you can get up at the crack of noon. Enjoy your latte. And paddle out at Pipeline. The most crowded, competitive wave in the world.
And get waves, no problem. Dominate.
99.9% of all other surfers. Not gonna happen. Getting a surf spot when the waves are good, breaking clean, and uncrowded in Southern California is very difficult. It’s why surfers fly all over the world. Spend a ton of $$. Every day looking for this.
If you’ve seen Endless Summer, a 1960’s surfing movie about traveling the world in search of the “perfect” wave, then you know what I’m talking about.
Getting these perfect uncrowded conditions in Southern California is hard. Or even within a few hours drive. Some say its impossible. We understand.
At our home break – the killer reef break I can’t name on the internet or I’ll catch grief from all the locals – surfers paddle out on a half-way decent swell when it’s pitch black, an hour before day break. Just to get it good. Before its crowded. Even though they cant see where they’re surfing. Somewhere between surfing by braille and the Helen Keller School of Surfing. Challenging.
A lot of surfers paddle out at the crack of dawn. Two reasons. First, “beat” the crowds. Trouble is at our home break, most of those dudes surf well. Not so easy picking off waves unless its really consistent.
Second, before the on-shore winds start up and blow out the surf.
Boat Surfing…Top to Bottom Barrels
“What do you mean, get up?” I sputter. I don’t need to look at my clock or my phone. I know “O”-dark-thirty. No one in their reasonable mind would get up now.
Roosters are sound asleep. And will be for hours more.
I get up like a zombie. Grab my phone, can’t be without my phone, my pre-packed day-pack and stumble down the stairs. Through the garage, towards the truck. Pour myself into the backseat.
“Can you bring my pillow? Please?” I slur. I spread a big beach towel over me. Night, night.
Did I mention I’m not a morning person? I’m in the back of the pick-up curled up trying to go back to sleep. Still dark outside. Waian’s sleeping.
This is stupid crazy. What the heck!
On the freeway. No traffic.
Surfboards on the racks above the truck bed. Full on surf vehicle.
I’ve been asleep for awhile. We’re stopped. Trucks being unloaded in a parking lot. Walking down the steep ramp. With my backpack and board. The marina has one of those big steel doors. You can’t open it without a marina credit card sensor. It’s got a float on it. In case you drop it in the water. You do not want to be that girl. “I’ll hold the key, Waian.”
What are we doing here? At a marina with surfboards? At this hour?
Where we live faces west. It goes off with spring and fall west swells. Huge with water northwest swells. Summer’s another trade-off. We miss all the south swells in the summer. They go right past our beach. Miss us completely.
Goodbye San Diego. Hello Orange County. Hello LA. City of Fallen Angels. Hello Channel Islands.
Are we there? Or are we in Mexico? Baja? If I told you, I’d be banished for life by the guys that surf here regularly. I say “guys” not because I’m sexist. I just can’t remember seeing any female surfers, other than me and Waian. I just can’t. Certainly no kids our age. Boys or girls. Like I say. I know we’re blessed.
Not a secret spot. But you won’t see these “boat surfing” spots on any surf maps. But not a “secret” spot. Close though.
Some summer days when big swell is all over the internet. Lots of boats show up. Not where we’re going to surf today. But nearby. But it’s a Tuesday morning. Gorgeous summer day and it’s early. We’ll see.
As Waian says, “I hope you didn’t jinx it!” “Hope”… what a great word.
People are always up early at the marina. The regulars know us. They’re not surprised we’re walking down the dock with surfboards.
Others do a double take. Then, a triple take. “What are these little girls doing with surfboards at a marina?” If they only knew ☺
While the boat is getting loaded, engine is warming up, and the surfboards are being put on the surf racks and strapped down; Waian and I are getting donuts and junk food from the marina store.
Load up. We need sugar. Lots of it. The old salt that works there knows us. He doesn’t care. Not his kids bouncing around on a sugar high.
Loaded up. We head back to the boat.
Its just about daybreak as usual we’re running late. Surprised? Nope. It is what it is.
Summer warm. But we have sweat shorts on, because the wind on the boat can be chiller this early.
Hope the waters still warm. Please. The ocean water can and does change day to day.Been in the low 70’s. Nice. We have our spring suits and our fall suits in our backpacks, just in case. P-L-E-A-S-E be warm.
Boats nice. Boston Whaler. Center console. Not a dinky little whaler you see buzzing around the harbor. This whalers made for the ocean. Surf racks on top. Surf boat.
I talked about this lottery thing before. We win. Again.
Please, don’t hate us for it. We’re actually pretty nice. Well-grounded.
Come on, Waian. Stop rolling your eyes. You’re not helping not one bit.
We’re clearing the no-wake zone. Up on plane. Flying over the water. Glassy. No wind. Perfect.
The Original Surfers has the “we don’t surf and tell” policy. So, i’m not going to tell you details about what we pass and see on our way to the surf spot.
I can’t and won’t identify or even give good clues about the surf break. Only you have to have a boat to surf it. And.
It’s a reef.
What are the possibilities? Anywhere North of Santa Barbara. The Channel Islands? OC? LA? Even Mexico? Baja? Not saying. But what I will say is everything about what I’m telling you is true. Only thing im not telling where it is like I say, if I do I wont be able to surf it anymore. Sorry.
We’re still early. We pull up. No boats are here. Yes!! Like I said, the only way to get to the surf spot is by boat. Boat surfing.
We haven’t seen how good it is. Because we stop over a couple hundred yards away. Watching. Waiting.
Here’s a set. Hard to tell from this far away. Looks like its working. Nothing here. But nice. It’s empty. I convince them to surf here. Looks fun. Drop and set the anchor.
I put my hand over the side. Touch the water. Water’s warm. Yes! Trunking it. Sun’s coming up.
Put my leash on. Step off the swim step. Jump on my board. Paddle.
Nice. Perfect. Glassy. No one out. Getting closer. I can feel it. Hear it. Taste it.
Here comes a set. Got it. Oh my. Top to Bottom Barrels. Going off. Much bigger than we thought it would be. Overhead and making sections kick out. I give a small hoot. Chesire cat grin. Ear to ear. Omg.
Next wave, Waian’s smoking down the line. Fast. I give her a hoot. Wow. Hang loose sign.
Be sure to check back next week for Part 6 of a Teen’s Surf Saga.
In Part 7, we’re still on a boat surfing trip-the good, the bad and the ugly.
Thanks,
Kaila
PS Everything in “Boat Surfing trip” is true. Except, of course, we don’t tell you where we’re surfing and/or the names of surf spots. It’s not that we don’t want to tell you, but we’d be banished for life if we did. That would suck. Until next time, see you in the water or hanging out on the beach.